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SHAPE MAGAZINE - July 2007 Issue
FIXING SUN-DAMAGED HAIR
The Basic Facts How many layers does hair consist of? 3 layers. The hair itself consists of a central core, the medulla, (which is sometimes absent in finer hairs), a cortex, which forms the bulk of the hair, and an outer protective covering called the cuticle, is a made from stronger keratin.
What exactly happens to hair when it gets overexposed to sun? Up to which layer is affected? Sunlight produces oxidatisation of the hairĄ¯s pigment in the cuticle, mainly from the ultraviolet component of the light. When the pigment is oxidised, it loses its natural color. Hair color can be naturally lightened by the bleaching action of the sun. The resulting color can be explained in the following table.
Ultraviolet also oxidises some cystine to cysteic acid, which weaken the hairĄ¯s structure. In extreme cases, ultraviolet radiation leads to weakening of the hair cortex by breaking some strong disulphide bonds. This, in turn, can lead to hair breakage.
Strong sunlight have an adverse effects on the hair shaft causing hair dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, loss of color and lustre, stiffness, and brittleness. Hair that has lost its lustre does not reflect light giving that dull look.. Depending on the intensity of the sun and the moisture content and general health of the hair, damage can result from a few hours to a few days of exposure.
What to look for What are the signs of sun-damaged hair? ¨C frizziness? Flyaways? Split ends? What is happening to hair when itĄ¯s frizzy? What are flyaways? What causes them? The signs are hair dryness, reduced strength, rough surface texture, loss of color and luster, stiffness, and brittleness. These conditions explain some of the terms you have described i.e. frizziness, split ends, breakage. Flyaways or hairs that resist styling or combing are the result damage from dryness. Or it can be explained by extreme intelligence, exemplified by EinsteinĄ¯s hair condition.
What does sun-streaked hair mean and how do we identify it? The brassing of the hair and the streaks of brown or blond hair caused by sun damages characterised the sun-streak look.
Simple Solutions Some simple ways of preventing hair from being damaged by overexposure to the sun: covering up head, regular trims, etc. Simply protect your hair by wearing a hat or bandanna when you are out on hot, sunny day. Where there is sun, there is wind so tie up long hair to keep it from knotting.
A more complicated method would be to use hair products containing sun-protection ingredients. Octyl-dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid (Padimatte O) is a good sun-screen, Padimate O has an HPF of 9.8 to 12.0 (out of a possible 15). The effectiveness of these shampoos as sunscreens can be enhanced by conditioners. The conditioners can disperse the sunscreen more evenly on the shaft. Moisturising or conditioning the hair can help make the hair more resistant to drying but longer exposure will still cause damage.
Expert Strategy Your expert advice on addressing this problem. Once damage, all solutions are temporary. Best to trim it off and wait for the hair to grow again. And do not perm, bleach or try to straighten your hair, this will only make matters worse.
If hair is still frizzy, etc after following the simple solutions above, could diet be blamed or some other health problem? Who do we need to see if problem persists ¨C a Trichologist or a GP? If the frizzy or dry hair is not caused by exposure to the sun, then a more thorough analysis is needed. A Trichologist can make a full clinical evaluation of a patient complaining of abnormal hair texture, a full history of the hair disorder itself and a detailed, systemic family and drug history is taken.
Hypothyroidism and other endocrine disorders, iron deficiency, malnutrition, metabolic disorders, exposure to drugs or toxic chemicals, collagen disease, infections such as syphilis, and widespread skin disease could potentially cause such condition.
The condition could also be an inherited hair defects, fungal infections of hair or over-processing the hair with chemical (perms, tints etc.)
If the causes have health implications, it is then best to also consult a doctor. As a Trichologist, we often recommend patient to see their family doctor if a health problem is suspected. Hair problems are often the symptom of underlying health issues. |
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Treatment for:
For Men & Women Baldness ¨C Hair Loss Hair Replacements Alopecia Scaling Hair & Scalp Disorders Dry/Oily Scalp
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